The Sew Weekly Reunion

because we missed it…

The “Asymmetrical Geometric” dress by Adey Lim

Before I start my post, I would like to thank everyone who contributed to the Sew Weekly Reunion 2013! As long as you finished your project, you are a contributor to the Reunion and you are all so awesome!

Now it’s time to celebrate because you have sewed at least a challenge theme item, some of you three items!!!, and met the deadline! Woo hoo!

This is going to be a busy week on the Reunion blog with posts planned Monday to Sunday, sometimes with two posts a day. Besides creations from Debi, Sarah, Veronica and myself (2011 TSW style),  3 fabulous and inspiring projects from contributors will also be featured on the blog. No, you do not know who you are yet but we’ll be grabbing a couple of  photos, your blog write-up and featuring them on this blog (off course with a link back to your blog or flickr for all the amazing project photos) through the week  (2012 TSW style). All projects submitted will also be slowly revealed according to color categories. Winners of the color challenge and the swap challenge will be announced the following week. So, if you are ready, let the reveal begin….

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The “Asymmetrical Geometric” dress

The Facts

Fabric: 2 metres of geometric chiffon from stash and remnant black crepe back satin from previous project. 2 metres of red lining fabric.

Notions: Invisible (side) zipper from stash, thread

Pantone Challenge colors: Samba, turbulence and vivacious

Pattern: Vintage McCall 6230

image

Year: 1945

Time to complete: Around 17 hours

First worn: Yesterday

Wear again? Yes!

Total Cost: Approximately US$25 

It is not often that I am motivated to sew with chiffon because it’s so much more time-consuming to sew with and cutting it usually meant that at some point I will be pulling my hair out. This Reunion, undoubtedly, gave me a nudge to sew with this fabric again.

I practically ransacked my fabric stash for the Pantone Fall 2013 colors and eventually narrowed down to this geometric chiffon from Spotlight which has been sitting in my stash for at least a couple of years. I vaguely remembered that it was the last 2 metres available. I’d originally shortlisted three 1940s patterns from my stash but it was the yardage requirement which eventually determined the project I would sew. Why the 1940s? It was actually during my year-long participation in The Sew Weekly which made me realize that this has to be my favorite fashion era.  Some of my favorite Sew Weekly mades like the 40s sweetheart Dress and Jason Wu Bow Dress (below) were also from vintage patterns of the 1940s.40smade

I normally buy fabrics in 3 yards or metres just to be safe but fortunately for me, this fabric was wide and sufficient for McCall 6230, a vintage pattern from 1945.

The back bodice was a one-piece centre fold, which made it easy for me to decide on the print placement. It has a small back opening secured with two inverted bias ties. The front bodice had 3 pieces, the main front bodice which was cut on the bias, a shoulder yoke on one side and a side yoke on the other. Once I finished sewing the bodice, I loved how the back looked but hated how messy the front was.

TSWreuniondress

I also didn’t like the fact that most of the gathers on the bodice was lost in that print. Knowing that I didn’t have enough chiffon left to cut another main front piece, I went with plan B. I cut the main piece using a remnant piece of black crepe back satin and used chiffon for the yokes.

Hello gathers! I was happier with the results this time but faced another issue. I cut the skirt yoke, which joins the side yoke according to the pattern piece, but when I sewed it, I realized that the printed pattern was a mirror image of what it should have been. Why? Why? Why? I know, I should have double-checked. My original fabric placement plan was to have all the sharp ends of the triangles meet at the waist. You can see that the side yoke is doing as planned but the sharp edges of the skirt yoke are pointing in the opposite direction. I would also have to sew the skirt yoke using the fabric back where colors are slightly less vibrant. By now, I had run out of fabric to cut another piece. Boo hoo.

The “Asymmetrical Geometric” dress

Nonetheless, it is still a pattern and dress I adore. Asymmetrical design-checked, matching bodice and skirt seams-checked, matching bodice and skirt darts- checked, matching yoke seams- checked. What’s more, I adore those gathered sleeves which flatter like no other.

Beside the skirt yoke pattern piece, the shoulder seams for this dress was extremely wide. I looked ridiculous in it after attaching the sleeves. Not surprising since most dresses of the era made provisions for shoulder pads. However, I have really broad shoulders and have never encountered this issue while sewing with 40s patterns.

I had to unpick the sleeves, cut and readjust the ample shoulder/armhole area before reattaching the sleeves again.   Each sleeve is made of 2 identical pieces sewed in the middle and gathered. Bias fabrics are then sewed on the reverse to hold those gathers. I planned and cut these such that the left and right sleeves looked identical and the front and back are mirror image of each other. I really had a lot of fun with fabric placement for this project.

sleeves and shoulder yoke

While the front of the skirt was one huge piece of fabric gathered at the yoke, the back of the skirt consisted of a centre back piece and 2 side back pieces. I chose to have the same fabric print repeats itself thrice there. The entire dress, with the exception of the sleeves, is lined.

All in all, besides that skirt yoke, I’m happy with this project. And though this chiffon frayed like crazy, having finally sewed it was rather satisfying.

TSWreuniondressback

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36 comments on “The “Asymmetrical Geometric” dress by Adey Lim

  1. crystalpleats
    September 2, 2013

    I think your dress looks wonderful. This will be a fun couple of weeks to follow.

    • The Sew Convert
      September 2, 2013

      Thank you so much! I certainly hope everyone enjoys the reveal! It’s gonna be busy weeks for me, I’ve only gone through half the submissions, gonna go through the rest now :P

  2. Pingback: Sew Weekly Reunion: The “Asymmetrical Geometric” Dress | The Sew Convert

  3. vintagezest
    September 2, 2013

    This is so beautiful! The pattern, fabric, and colors are perfection. :) I really love the sleeves and your attention to detail there. I’m afraid that my submission is a little too simplistic now! :)

    • The Sew Convert
      September 2, 2013

      @vintagezest: Thank you for your sweet comment! No worries, no submission is too simplistic and I love that yours have a refashion element to it:)

  4. JacqC
    September 2, 2013

    Beautiful dress, very stylish. I’m so excited to see what everyone has made :)

    • The Sew Convert
      September 2, 2013

      @JacqC: Thank you so much:) We can’t wait to share them too!

  5. Simona
    September 2, 2013

    If you not have mentioned your trouble to get the triangles to meet at the waist and that the skirt ones are pointing in a different direction, I would not have noticed. Your dress is lovely anfit suits you as well.

  6. Cation Designs
    September 2, 2013

    I like it so much with that contrast black panel in front! What a marvelous print, and yes, TSWR is a great excuse to sew up all of our special fabrics that we’ve been saving.

    • The Sew Convert
      September 2, 2013

      @Cationdesigns:Thank you so much! I’m so glad I changed the front to black, makes all the extra effort seem all worthwhile!

  7. eline
    September 2, 2013

    Wow Adey, that dress looks fabulous! I love the geometrical pattern a lot and I think it works wonderful with the black fabric in front.

  8. Adrienne
    September 2, 2013

    You are a mastermind. I can’t believe how well this dress turned out. You’re totally inspiring me to give chiffon a go.

  9. Belinda C
    September 2, 2013

    Wow! You really nailed it Adey. Your dress is stunning!

    • The Sew Convert
      September 2, 2013

      @Belinda: Thank you so much, I’m delighted that you like it!

  10. Ellen
    September 2, 2013

    That fabric is so captivating! Lovely, lovely dress.

  11. Sally {thequirkypeach}
    September 2, 2013

    This is so gorgeous!!! That print placement is A-Ma-Zing!!! Wow – I would love to have this dress in my closet :) I think the sleeves are my favorite part!

    • The Sew Convert
      September 9, 2013

      Thank you so much, that’s such a lovely compliment! I love your Anna dress in stripes too!

  12. zibergirl
    September 2, 2013

    You did such a lovely job on this dress, taking time to make it just perfect. I looked for that so-called mess-up on the bodice, but really couldn’t see what you mentioned. Are we going to reunion more times in the future? Like every few months? I know it’s a lot of work, but so much fun for everyone.

    • The Sew Convert
      September 9, 2013

      Thank you so much! I’m so glad you are enjoying the reunion. Hope we can get some technical issues sorted out so that everyone can post directly onto the reunion blog next time. After that, we can see is everyone wants to ‘reunion’ more often:)

  13. Gjeometry
    September 2, 2013

    Oooh, this is to die for!! I love those ruched sleeves and that bodice. And, the fabric, gorgeous! This is really a very flattering and wearable dress. I find some vintage patterns can end up looking a tad costumey, but this one totally works! Nice job. I used Vivacious for my contribution and can totally see it in your dress.

    • The Sew Convert
      September 9, 2013

      Thank you so much! wow! I actually did consider a solid vivacious dress using this pattern! Your cape is so pretty and unique in the most amazing colors too!

      • Gjeometry
        September 10, 2013

        Oh, thank you so much!

  14. Béa
    September 2, 2013

    Ooh! Those gathers are so pretty!

  15. Amy
    September 2, 2013

    Another gorgeous 1940s dress!

  16. margueritedesigns
    September 2, 2013

    Love the colours in that and well done for rescuing it!

  17. EmSewCrazy
    September 3, 2013

    That is an amazing dress. Frankly, I can’t see what you were talking about for the yoke. The whole thing looks gorgeous!

  18. Sully Liz
    September 4, 2013

    I love your dress! I think the plain front makes it very sophisticated. Beautiful job!

  19. sgabbart
    September 4, 2013

    Adey you are so talented and beautiful – love this creation!

  20. lee
    September 5, 2013

    The 40s are my fave era for dresses too. The sleeve construction on this one is lovely and the Rorschach effect with the print and keyhole opening in the back is stunning.

  21. Amanda
    September 6, 2013

    Reblogged this on Sew Deputy and commented:
    The Sew Weekly Reunion

  22. Veronica Darling
    September 8, 2013

    AMAZING Adey! I love the panel, so glad you decided to go with it! Just lovely! xoxo

  23. Pingback: The “Asymmetrical Geometric” dress

  24. anuradhaforever
    October 9, 2013

    I just found your blog..!!! You are so talented ..!!!:)

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Adey Lim

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